Jewelers and manufacturers alike will often send in pieces for assay verification. From time to time, we find when using XRF analysis, the consistency of the karating varies in different spots on any given piece. This is usually the result of a repair utilizing a lower karat jewelry solder. When it comes to ordering solder, you’ve got many options! These options can cause confusion by the time the solder makes its way from the point of sale to the bench.
Here is what you need to know when it comes time to order solder for your shop.
Plumb vs. Repair Jewelry Solder
United Precious Metal Refining offers both plumb, as well as repair jewelry solder.
Plumb Jewelry Solder is primarily intended for use by manufacturers in the creation of new jewelry collections. Plumb jewelry solders are fabricated containing exactly the correct amount of gold to match the karat specifications (see chart below).
Gold Karat | Purity of Gold Content in Plumb Gold |
10K | 41.7% Gold |
14K | 58.3% Gold |
18K | 75.0% Gold |
22K | 91.6% Gold |
24K | 99.9% Gold |
Repair Jewelry Solder is intended for making small repairs that are barely noticeable. Often times, jewelers will use these to size or fix older pieces of jewelry. They offer the same benefits as plumb solders and are about four karats below plumb. (A 14K repair solder is actually 10.8K.)
Refining customers may question why the 14K is not 58.33% gold. Pieces that are hallmarked 750 may not necessarily be 18K throughout the entire piece. Solder spots play a large role in the lower assay results. When it comes to handmade chains, each individual link has a solder spot. Using a repair solder on those solder spots would have a noticeable effect on the overall purity of the piece when it comes time to refine it.
Solder plays a vital role in our industry when it comes to manufacturing and repairing jewelry. It allows jewelers and manufacturers alike to create and repair beautiful pieces of jewelry for customers. In addition to traditional solder, United also offers Laser Wire for Soldering as well as Solder Alloys for making solder.
Watch our YouTube video on United’s Jewelry Solders!
Keeping Track of the Different Solders
It is a good idea to keep the different solders at your shop separate. Additionally, one should only work with one specific jewelry solder at a time. Afterwards, collect and package the clippings to keep them with the correct karat solder. This will ensure you aren’t under or over karating pieces on future projects.
Tricks of the Trade: Use a Sharpie pen or clothing dye to mark your different karated solders in different colors. These markings won’t interfere with the work you are doing and will help to visually identify where those dropped clippings belong.
Repair Solder has a specific intended use in the industry. Repair solder is meant for smaller repairs that can be done without drastically affecting the piece and is not intended for jewelry manufacturers when creating new jewelry lines. Doing so would have a negative effect on the integrity of the collection being manufactured and could jeopardize the designer’s and manufacturer’s reputation. For new jewelry manufacturing, plumb solder is the only way to go.
To view the complete list of Cadmium Free Solders offered at United PMR, click here.
For more information or to place an order for United’s Cadmium-Free Solders or Solder Alloys, contact your account representative today at 1-800-999-FINE.